When last we left Siena we were climbing up through the racing neighborhoods making our way to the focal point of the ancient city. In Italy that would be...The Cathedral of Siena (Duomo di Siena).
I know. I know. Another cathedral in Italy. What a surprise. The long trek up the hilly passages they call streets, to it's distant, misty spire we saw while getting off the bus (see photo in Part 1) was an arduous journey but, after gaining entrance, the magnificence and oddities awaiting us made for an unforgettable experience.
Last time out I mentioned the lack of any patch of green. I stand corrected. There are a few well placed patches guarded by a fence and, in this case, a wrought iron rhino. The fenced in area is where the horse drawn to race for Contrada della Selva gets to graze or stand or turn around (not enough room for a trot or a canter much less a gallop) in the fresh air. The stable is through the gate and, since the horse actually lives outside the city proper and only stays here pre race, there is little need (nor room) for more sumptuous surroundings. I was noticing the condition of the brickwork done centuries ago and if I lived here I might be a bit nervous about opening and closing windows or slamming doors. Just saying...it's a long way down.
We wound our way up the worn stone streets until we arrived at the duomo courtyard. Standing there it looked to me as if there were dueling artists battling for top honors in most statues of Saints, Popes, animals and gargoyles to adorn the exterior of a cathedral in Italy.
It boggles the mind to see what was jutting out from the corners of the upper deck of the Duomo. The intricacy of the carving and the detail was astonishing even when viewed from far below. By today's standards I would say it was a tad overdone, but that's just me. I like things simple. Give me Saints or animals or even a gargoyle or two, but look at this thing!
If you've been following my Italy posts you will already know I have a thing for the incredible doors I've seen in the country. They are not just a portal they are a defense. The size and materials used would require a battering ram and a regiment to unhinge. There was such a door at the main entrance to Duomo di Siena. It wasn't the size we experienced and took photos against in Rome, but it is an impressive ornate bronze (I assume) work of art. Loved it. If you think about it there were relics and riches within, such as the bones of Saints, art (now priceless) and objects of gold belonging to the church. Huge sturdy doors were of great importance. in this particular case the bronze door at left has adorned the duomo since 1946. Ididn't mean 1469. It was reportedly installed while the Germans still occupied the town (even though the date is post WWII). Just the fact that contruction started in the 13th century
and continued into the 20th century is a testament to...uh...
something? The doors were a nice touch.
The bell tower we saw from the distance appeared to be striped in the manner of a lighthouse on the shoreline. I suppose in a way it does/did shine a light guiding the faithful to the celebratory gathering within its doors. The motif is carried throughout the exterior and ends on the sections of the building added over time.
At left you will notice the three gables (triangular peaks) adorning the upper facade. What can't be seen here is the exquisite mosaics at the center of the triangles.Work on the lower portion of the structure started in 1284 continuing on and off for centuries.
The mosaics were made in Venice in 1878. The center panel pictured depicts the Coronation of the Virgin.
The other panels were smaller in size but as rich in color and craftsmanship. The mosaic to the left depicts the Nativity and below the Presentation of Mary at the Temple.
All three are striking to see glistening in the bright sunshine as is the polychrome striped marble of the original facade.
At first I thought the marble was constructed using a black marble for the stipes. But my curiosity stimulated research for a definitition of polychrome marble informed me that the stone stripes were
painted. Ancient Greeks and Roman sculptures were ornately decorated with colorful paint and gilted as were certain structures and buildings. Much of the Roman statuary (cast or marble)was destroyed by Christians as pagan symbols during the rise of the early church. When what was left of Roman art was "rediscovered" during the Renaissance the decorations adorning the sculptures didn't survive the previous centuries neglect giving rise to our reverence of glistening white marble figures standing frozen in time. A painted marble statue of a Roman soldier...? A painting I could see, but don't slap polychrome on that pretty white marble.
In Part Three we will enter through the bronze doors and have a peek inside.
*Thanks for the additional information Wiki and Tuscan Tourism. I was there but...some details were lost in the translation! See you next time.
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