There's Something About Siena Part 1

Name the places known for famous horse racing events. There's the one in England where the ladies wear the funny hats and the one in Kentucky USA where the ladies wear hats (probably funny looking as well) and sip Mint Julips and there's one that ran in the Arabian desert of which a movie was made and there is another that takes place in a cobblestone town square pitting neighborhood against neighborhood. The last one takes place in the Tuscan town of Siena Italy(there was a theatrical film made about the contest too).

In our travels last year we didn't happen to be there when the race was run, but visiting the town was compelling just the same. We were walking through a neighborhood and I smelled it. My salivary glands went into overdrive and I could swear my grandfather had returned from his eternal rest to cook the Sunday tomato sauce. I couldn't identify from which window the rich aroma of garlic, olive oil,  fresh tomato and the aromatic spices simmering wafted, but I didn't want to leave the area without dipping a hunk of semolina bread into the pot for a taste! Funny how the olfactory part of our brain can foster memories to come to the surface and carry us back in time (good or bad).

Tuscany is  the romantic hill country in northern Italy know for wine, olives and historic towns with historic churches filled with historic art. No vehicular traffic is permitted in Siena aside from city maintenance so one has to hoof it and hoof it we did. We had no idea how far we would traverse up hill but what we saw in the early morning mists made it clear we were in for a climb! No worries it's all part of the experience. The way up is something of a blur but walking into the town square made up for tired feet or lack of wind.

We were tourists...on a tour. It was the only time on the trip we were day long captives riding a tour bus with a guide tied to a schedule as part of a herd. We avoided this type of touring since it took personal discovery out of the proposition.

However, in this case, though it was a long, long day and we were exhausted upon returning to Florence it was worth it...well, most of it anyway.

The story of Siena is much like the other Tuscan towns. Rich families pitted against one another in trade and power. Our guide had all the history and showed us the various family strongholds relating some of the dirty deeds done to and by each in order to gain power and or riches. Some of the edifices sported some of the creepiest statuary one could ever expect to see. Perhaps it had a calming affect on those who lived at that time but having these heads (Popes or not) staring down at me would give me the creeps!

Michaelangelo spent some of his youth in Siena

That's not Kilroy nor Waldo looking back. Concerned townie?

with some of his work to be seen in the town. But we're not there yet. Siena is a series of neighborhoods. Each neighborhood is clearly marked and has its own coat of arms if you will.  Each neighborhood competes to be chosen to run in the horse race with the winner holding bragging rights til the next time. Trust me. It's a huge deal.
We wound our way through the streets of the ancient city and as the streets became smaller and the buildings closer we began to get a sense of being in a fortress, The sun didn't reach every corner and the shadows aided in the feeling of  how close living within the city walls must have been in the times of the city states before electricity and modern conveniences. And not one blade of grass or greenery to be seen anywhere.

When we finally reached the city center we walked through a dark passage and came into the light of the town square. The architecture was typical matching what we had seen in Florence and surrounding towns. But it was hard to believe a full on horse race could be held in such close quarters and on such an uneven cobblestone piazza. It had to be a death defying ride.
The Palio di Siena held in the Piazza del Campo twice a year (July and August) pits 10 of the 17 neighborhoods (contrada) against each other. Records of the races date back to the 6th century and beyond.
As I said there are 17 neighborhoods with their own colors and symbols.
(If you are interested you can find reems of information about the Palio di Siena on the web so I will not offer all the details here, but suggest you wander through www.discovertuscany.com)

 The rules have been handed down through the ages with a tweak here and there, but the basic format stays the same. The thing I found amazing is that so much is left to chance. The contrada if selected only picks the rider. The horse comes by lottery. Another point of interest is that the jockey rides bareback. There is no saddle, nor stirrups to help him stay aboard. The prize for all that risk is a banner and the intense pride of knowing that against all odds your neighborhood reigns supreme...until the next race.
In modern Italy Siena has managed to maintain the feel of the old world. There are shops and eateries and historical sites but what else? There are no parks or supermarkets. I was struck by the lack of a blade of grass or any greenery. What crystalized it was seeing Bandit. A lady was walking Bandit and Johnny Quest 's dog had no obvious place to do his business! He did find a stone to sniff and make his mark, but a hydrant or a lamp post or a patch of green would have been nice. And he wan't the only pooch we saw on a leash.

Ahhh,well. It's a Tuscan city dog's life. I'm sure they've adapted.





Michaelangelo slept here! Join us for Part 2 of this post.
Hope to see you next time.