Siena Part 3: It's What's Inside That Counts or It Remains To Be Scene.

Welcome back Dear reader. When last we left Siena there was much said about the marble ediface of the Duomo di Siena. We even learned a new word for old world painting of ancient marble things, but we have yet to set foot inside the place. That we will do in Part 3 of our visit to the Tuscan town of Siena.

Walking through the bronze doors and after taking a moment to adjust to the change in light, your eyes behold an architectural and artistic visual assault of massive proportions. The lack of a single mind guiding the hands that crafted the interior of this temple of the faithful high above the town doesn't diminish the amazing sights within. Somehow parts of it reminded me more of what I had seen as decoration inside a mosque in the Holy Land...but that's another story.

The black and white striped marble motif was repeated on the interior columns (we must be in Siena) and when you look up a gaggle (what's a group of Popes called? Wait. There can't be a group of Popes. One  passes away prior to another being chosen.) of Popes are staring down as if to make sure you don't misbehave when attending mass!







Aside from statuary, pulpits, stained glass, altars and the dome itself there is the floor. The floor of the Duomo is a precious work of art in itself. It took over 200 years to finish, meaning the artist who conceived the design didn't live to see it completed. The floor is made up of intricate mosaics and is rarely seen in its entirety. Sunlight and human traffic would have eroded what is a marvel of craftsmanship and design.

So for the moment we look down. Not easy to do it photgraphic justice with difficult sight angles and the glare from above, but you can appreciate the craftsmanship seen at left. The 56 panels reach from nave to apse creating an interlocking carpet of stunning proportions. Some of the mosaic work was done with cut pieces of various colored marble fitted together to create a scene and others done by carving the design into the marble and then filling it with black stucco and pitch. The floor was the work of over 40 artists and artisans. and was begun in the 14 century.

Photo credit  Tuscany Arts

It so happened that our visit came during the only time last year the entire floor was uncovered. Seeing I was unable to shoot from the ceiling I borrowed a shot from the Tuscany Art website (credited above) in order to give you a better idea of how incredible an accomplishment it is.





Next we look up. I'm sure you recall those watchful plaster busts (172 torsos with 344 carved eyes)starting with their sitting Pope Lucius III going all the way back to Saint Peter staring down from high above. It still seems kind of creepy if you ask me.  Just below them (and for a change of pace) are the heads of 36 emperors (above). You can see a star motif decorates the ceilings eliminating the need for frescos (there are frescos, but not on the ceiling). The stars also decorate the dome all the way to the the top ring surrounded by winged cherubs. Just looking at the photo of the dome seems to draw one  up and raises one's spirits.

 As a place of worship for the simple townsfolk the ostentatious display of riches had to be overwhelmingly glorius. The power of the church on display. The cathedral was built on the grounds of a 9th century church and Bishops house. According to my research in 1058 a synod was held there and Pope Nicholas III  was elected deposing Benedict X. The history of the building of Duomo di Siena is dramatic and over the span of centuries it has weathered war (both archaic and modern) as well as the Black Death, but I'm not a historian nor do I want to bog you down with lots of references so if you're interested hit the wikipedia under Siena Cathedral or go to the Tuscany Art  site I cited earlier. They will do a much better job than I could ever hope to.



I want to get to the artistic contributions made by two namesakes of the Teenage Mutant Ninja
Turtles. First, a young Michelangelo was commissioned to complete the statues in the altar at left. Our guide said he never finished, moving on to better paying, grander if not greater things. Apparently no one was available over the centuries to get the last piece done. The spot upper right, stands empty centuries later.

About the stripes...there is no joke such as: What is black and white and black and white and black and white? A nun falling down the stairs. (Knuckles got smacked with a ruler for that one at St Martin of Tours School) Black and white are the offical colors of Siena and are supposed to represent the black and white horses of the city founders, Senius and Aschius. There's that horse thing again. I'm just glad it didn't become the fashion statement responsible for 20th Century prison garb. Also, I kept thinking zebra.



Turtle namesake number two Donatello contributed far more of his artistry in sculpture and paint than did Michelangelo.

But we will save that for the final segment of our trip to Siena. We haven't been to the library yet!